Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif

In the week between 19 and 25 February I carried out two first winter ascents in the Envers des Aiguilles of the Mont Blanc massif. The particular conditions this year meant that the entire area enjoyed very good conditions.

The first route, Hypnotic Lain climbed with Oliver Gajewski, shares the first pitches of a summer route (Sparks in the rain, C. de Bode/Pascal Camison 2107/1984) and is located on the bastion of Pointe 2999m of Aiguille du Nantillons, and runs parallel to Sorterriko Koblak, recently established by Alain Andres and Garo Azkue.

We climbed the route on February 19th and 20th. On the first day we made the approach and equipped the first two pitches, given that the conditions of the initial "plaquage" were not clear to us. Luckily conditions were optimal and we enjoyed climbing these 100 metres, quickly and in relative safety. Amazing alpine ice stuck to the rock. On the second day, after being a bit lazy at the hut due to the light snowfall, we climbed the rest of the route up perfect alpine ice.

As to the name. "Hypnosis" implies a change in the state of consciousness and an increase in relaxation, allowing for better attention and concentration. "Lain", in memory of Line van den Berg, who with all her passion, energy and love for mountaineering sadly left us last year in the midst of this wild nature...

The second line, Folie Perseverante, was climbed with Valérie Dupont and Oliver Gajewski. After an initial mixed pitch it ascends a cool gully on Capucin du Requin. After almost a meter of fresh snow had fallen onto the massif, it was hard to believe that first ascents could still be made. Nevertheless, intuition mixed with our passion and folly led us to pursue our goal.

We climbed the line on February 24th and 25th, as on the first day we were not sure if we'd manage to reach the base due to the abundant fresh snow and the risk of avalanches. It took us a while to reach the start of the route, but at around 11:30am we set off up the first pitch. We climbed another 70m pitch before deciding to retreat to the warmth of the Requin refuge, due to the incessant spindrift that fell on us, leaving us soaked far too quickly.

On Sunday 25th, with slightly better but colder weather, we climbed back up our ropes and added two more fantastic pitches to reach an obvious col close to the summit of Capucin du Requin.

About the name. "Folie", because what is more beautiful than a crazy life? "Perseverant", remaining firm and constant in one's intentions, attitude or opinion.

I wish to thank my sponsors for supporting my adventures: Trango World, AKU, H-DRY and Grivel

by Santiago Padròs