Huanka Punta, another Peru master climb by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce

"One of the most beautiful routes we have opened in our career." This is the description of Cabeza Clava, the latest climb to have been first ascended by Spain’s Pou brothers and Manu Ponce up the south face of Huanka Punta, a 4670 tall peak in the southeast area of Cordillera Blanca in Peru. So just twenty days after their first ascent of the north face of nearby Cerro Tornillo, the Spaniards have now climbed the adjacent 470m slab of splendid limestone, breached past difficulties up to 6c+.

The trio needed two days for the first ascent. On day 1 they established the first 4 pitches, while the rest of the route was climbed while enduring a bitterly cold second day. The peak is located at above 4500m and the wall faces south; being in the southern hemisphere, it lies in the shade all day.

Iker explained "It was like being in the fridge for ten hours. The cold, between 0°C and -5°C, froze our fingers and toes and it was very hard to progress under these conditions. Only thanks to our bomb-proof motivation did we get to the summit! Most of the 9 pitches were protected with trad gear and only on three of them were we forced to place a few bolts. All the climbing runs up fantastic limestone, such good quality that the ascent of these perfect “organs” is one of the most beautiful we have ever done. We believe this is the first time we have opened a route of such quality and beauty in mountains. We are happy."

Links: FB Hermanos Pou, La Sportiva, Petzl, The North Face