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Dejan Koren climbs three new routes at Forcella Lavina

On the North Face of Travnik in Valle Lavina (Laghi di Fusine, Tarvisio, Italy) the Slovenian alpinist Dejan Koren has made the first ascent of three new mixed climbs, including the ice climb Mali Bogovi, dedicated to the late Urban Golob.

Planetmountain

March 2015

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Dejan Koren dealing with the most beautiful section of one of his best routes, Mali Bogovi at Forcella Lavina, dedicated to Urban Golob.

Dejan Koren

Dejan Koren has been actively new routing, not in his home country Slovenia but just across the border in the NE corner of Italy. More precisely, at Forcella Lavina above the Laghi di Fusine where, on the North Face of Travnik, he has added three difficult new lines to this grandiose valley.

Acting on an idea given to him by years ago by the late Luca Vuerich, on 24 January Koren teamed up with Tine Andreašič to first climb Spada di Damocle, the classic 250m IV/ WI5 outing established in winter 1981 by Sergio Serra and Tullio Ferluga. This in itself would have constituted a great day out but the duo continued upwards to make the first free ascent of the leftwards rising line they had attempted, and in part bolted, a week previously. The result is a further 150m of mixed climbing graded M8+, WI5+ called Čira čara. With time to spare, the two abseiled back down to the top of Spada di Damocle and then climbed diagonally right instead of left, to add another 170m of climbing. Koren believes this M4+, WI4, 80° extension will become "a beautiful classic that, in winters like this one, will most certainly be repeated often."

While tackling these two diagonal extensions, the Slovenians were well-aware that the greatest prize of all lay directly overhead, namely a "huge fang four hundred meters above the valley floor, hanging from the edge of the wall, waiting for its Prince…"

On Wednesday 4 March Koren returned, this time together with Tine Vidmar and, after having climbed Spada di Damocle yet again, they set off directly upwards. The result is Mali Bogovi, which translates as Little Gods, graded M10+, WI6, R, 170m. The route has no bolts and all pitches were climbed onsight except for the crux pitch which was redpointed second go.

According to Koren Mali Bogovi has everything a mixed climber could dream of: impressive void, difficult moves, tricky rock and excellent ice. The 34-year-old has dedicated what he believes is one of his finest creations to date to Urban Golob, the formidable Slovenian rock climber, alpinist, skier and journalist who recently passed away as a result of an incurable illness.

Travnik parete nord - Valle della Lavina
Čira čara, M8+, WI5+, 150m (+250m Spada di Damocle): Dejan Koren & Tine Andreašič (24/01/2015)
Damoklejev srp, M4+, WI4, do 80°, 170m, (+250m Spada di Damocle): Dejan Koren & Tine Andreašič (24/01/2015)
Mali Bogovi (Little Gods), M10+, WI6, R, 170m, (+250m Spada di Damocle): Dejan Koren & Tine Vidmar (04/03/2015)