In Chile’s Cochamó valley Domenico Mottarella & Marco Zanchetta establish 'El Diedro de lo Squalupo'

In early February 2025 the Italians Domenico Mottarella and Marco Zanchetta made the first ascent of "El Diedro de lo Squalupo" in the Cochamó Valley in Chile. The climb is located at Sector de Mamón in the La Paloma valley.
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Domenico Mottarella and Marco Zanchetta in Cochamo Valley, Chile, February 2025
Domenico Mottarella

At the end of January, the Italian climbers Domenico Mottarella and Marco Zanchetta traveled to Cochamó Valley in Chile, where they repeated several existing routes and established El Diedro de lo Squalupo.

The new route is located in the stunning side valley of La Paloma, just to the left of Why Papi Guay (2009) in the Sector de Mamón.

The first ascent required two attempts, on February 4 and 7, and the team breached difficulties up to 6b+ obligatory and 7c max. On the traverse to the right, two pendulums (A0) were used to reach the spectacular final corner. The belays and some pitches are equipped with 10mm bolts; however, a set of friends is needed for a repeat (see the report).

After completing the line, the pair still had a few days left and managed to make a free repeat,, with a "five-star" bivouac on the wall, Perdidos en el mundo on the north face of Cerro Walwalun. 870m high and with difficulties up to 7b+, this was put up in 2013 by the Italians Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni.

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