Annapurna, East ridge
Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc, Mario Merelli, Kristian Kuntner, Kobi Reichen and Carlos Pauner head for Annapurna's East Ridge
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| An extremely strong international expedition organised by Focus will depart from Italy on 4 September to attempt the difficult Annapurna East Ridge. The six-man team, composed of Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc, Mario Merelli, Kristian Kuntner, Kobi Reichen and Carlos Pauner has over forty 8000m peaks to its name and the ambitious plan is the long traverse along Annapurna's East Ridge. First climbed by the Swiss duo Erhard Lorethan and Norbert Joos, it was repeated for the first time by Jean Christophe Lafaille and Alberto Inurrategi on 16 May 2002. The 8091m main summit is reached via the two minor summits, both over 8000m, along the long ridge. The expedition plans to leave Kathmandu for Pokara on 7 September, to then reach basecamp after a seven- day acclimatisation walk-in. The team hopes to make a summit bid during its one-month stay.  We asked Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli a few questions about Annapurna and the Himalaya. Mondinelli has climbed nine 8000m peaks, four of which in 2001 alone.It seems as if two Himalayan ascents per season have become your norm. Is this to optimise your acclimatisation, or are you "addicted" to the 8000m peaks? Both are correct, but perhaps the real truth is that I'm getting older and have to use this moment to make the best of my physical and mental strength. Annapurna's East ridge, Loretan's route repeated only this spring by Lafaille e Inurrategi - why this choice? I'd received an invitation by Alberto Inurrategi for this spring, but I didn't have an ideal partner and I was worried about being alone on the crest. I met Norbert Joos, Loretan's climbing partner, on Makalu - we've known each other for quite a while and we spoke about the route. It's a great honour for me to try this climb and hopefully we'll find some of the gear used by Alberto Inurrategi and Jean Christophe Lafaille. Your team is extremely strong. How much does this count and how "alone" are you above 7000m, in the so-called death zone? In the Himalaya I think it's extremely important to feel physically well but, above all, psychologically strong. You don't need much to fail. Solitude is part of the game and a single word or sign from a partner helps a great deal. I suffer most from cold feet and this is one of the only things I really fear up there. Good luck! |
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