The routes

This route follows the large corner up the middle of the wall to the large roofs at half height. From here it continues leftwards, shares a belay with Thriller and Balbic and continues up slabs and cracks between the two....

Lucertolaia on Lastoni di Formin in the Italian Dolomites is a route with a both traditional and modern feel to it, almost Californian with belays that are mainly bolted and the pitches that need protecting with trad gear as they...

Madre Roccia climbs the right side of Specchio di Sara on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites). The route was first ascenedd between 2022 and 2023 by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani, with difficulties up to...

Madre Tierra is a huge mixed climb up the NW Face of Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in the Zoldo Dolomites, first ascended by Diego Toigo and Santiago Padrós after a first attempt a week earlier with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero...

Beautiful, logial and direct climbing up the SW Face of Torre dei Sabbioni. The route shares the first 3 meters of Diretta Livanos beore continuting directly up the obvious cracks towards the series of corners.

Route first ascended from the ground up using 10mm stainless steel bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend, as well as long quickdraws...

This is an easy itinerary at the foot of Monte Faloria, close to Cortina. It leads almost level through larch forests and past rocky outcrops that still nowadays echo the legends and history of the first inhabitants of the Dolomites.

First ascended from the ground-up in 2007 with stainless steel bolts, Mastro Lindo takes a line to the right of Linea d'ombra. The second pitch is hard but well protected, all remaining pitches are fun up a series of pockets...

Mente Demente climbs up the righthand side of the face, between the routes Anita (Massarotto-Salvestro 1984) and Massarotto - Bellin - Sansonne - Zonta (1992). The start is situated on the long grassy ledge that cuts across the wall, next...

The route climbs straight through the yellow section, clearly visible from San Gaetano di Valstagna (Valbrenta). Momento Libero is pleasant routerecommended to those who want to climb off the beaten track. The route offers both technnicaly slabs and steep overhangs...

Monte Pore, with its large iron summit cross, stands out like an immense white, beckoning pyramid above Passo Giau. The best way to answer its call is to put on snowshoes and walk to the summit – although demanding, it’s...

Sass de Stria (2477m), literally “bewitched rock”, was entirely tunnelled by the Austrian Army during the First World War, rendering it an important strategic stronghold, impenetrable for the Italian Alpini. The itinerary reaches the summit of the natural sentry post...

Multicolor is the first route on Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper, established with bolts except for the characteristic crack pitch which takes trad gear. The route climbs smooth black Dolomite slabs and then continues up the overhanging face. At present...

The ice climb Night Love rarely comes into condition but when it does, it offers fascinating climbing coupled with an extremely easy approach.

A modern bolt route first ascended from the ground which climbs the smooth slabs of the tower. The route ascends a compact vertical rock face and offers great mid-grade climbing. Given the route's difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is...

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...