Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno Aguglia di Goloritzé

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Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno - Aguglia di Goloritzé

Italy>Sardinia>Sardinia>Supramonte>Aguglia di Goloritzé

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Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno: Marco Morretti climbing the fantastic second pitch 6c+, Aguglia di Goloritzé, Sardinia

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Lorenzo Nadali, Mauro Zanichelli 1986

Planetmountain.com

Length

140m

Height

143m

Difficulty

Departure

Su Porteddu, Baunei

Arrival

Aguglia di Goloritzé

Route

The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!

Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb, technical, never easy and extremely exposed. A strong contender for one of the most beautiful multipitch sport climbs in Italy.

Getting there

Follow the SS125 from Cala Gonone to Baunei. At Baunei follow signs for San Pietro - Golgo. before reaching the small chruch turn off right along a dirt track following signs for Goloritzè-Piscinas. Drive to the end of this road and park at Su Porteddu, Campeggio-Bar. In spring, summer and autumn the car park and path require a toll (currently 6 euros).

Access

From here an obvious path leads first uphill then gently downhill in about an hour down to the beach and the Aguglia di Goloritzè. .

Itinerary

P1: 6c
P2: 7a
P3: 7a

Descent

Abseil down Sole Incantatore.

Gear

Bolt route. take 15 quickdraws and some slings.

Notes

Shade in the afternoon

Maps/Bibliography

Pietra di Luna trad & multipitches by Maurizio Oviglia. Fabula Editore, 2014.
Baunei (2021) Sport Climbing. By Maurizio Oviglia