Kind of Blue - Faraglione di Buggerru
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Maurizio Oviglia
A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the most beautiful coasts (and unfortunately also ruined by mines) in the Mediterranean
In order to reach the stack either rent a boat or be accompanied from Buggerru (ask for Mormora Tours at the port, modest fee reserved for climbers). The sea must be calm.
AccessStanding on the boat, grab the sharp rock at the start of the route, breach the first overlap and after 5 meters reach the first bolt. If you come by canoe or dinghy, climbing the starting overhang may prove problematic.
ItineraryAn easier section follows until the first bealy. From here continue past splendid climbing on wonderful grade 5 rock to reach the arete. From here deal with the crux section (5 meters of 6a) to reach the summit.
DescentWatch out for the abseils. It is not recommened to make a single abseil; if the ropet gets stuck (this is often the case given the shape of the rock) it will be difficult to get back onto the boat. Instead, abseil 30m from the chain to a belay 1 (2 bolts with stainless steel maillon rapide). Pull the ropes and make a second short rappel to the boat.
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