Hotel Supramonte - Punta Cucuttos - Gola di Gorropu

Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Roberto Vigiani 05/1988, after start 05/1988 by Larcher, Letizia Deavi, Maurizio Oviglia. Final 2 pitches Larcher & Vigiani 05/1999. 1st free ascent: Pietro Dal Prà 2000. 1st female ascent: Martina Cufar 2004. 1st onsight: Adam Ondra 2008
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Height
888m
Difficulty
8b
Obligatory difficulty
7c
Ascent exposition
North

Route



Hotel Supramonte above the spectacular Gola di Gorropu canyon is considered one of the most beautiful and famous hard multi-pitch climbs in the world. A true international masterpiece, the route was established ground-up over a period of five days in May 1998 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, after Larcher had established the first 2.5 pitches a few days earlier with his wife Letizia Deavi and Maurizio Oviglia. In May 1999 Larcher and Vigiani returned to Sardinia to completed the line by adding the last two pitches, and after the first ascent they redpointed all pitches except for one AO section on pitch 5, freed by Pietro Dal Prà in 2000.

Hotel Supramonte was the first climb up what at the time was the virgin north face of Punta Cucuttos; 400m up to 8b lead to the top, often past important runouts, especially in the upper section of the route which ends with a final 6b+ pitch which should not be underestimated. The famous niche after pitch 7 serves as a bivouac and several teams, including the first ascensionists, have spent the night here before continuing to the top.

The route was rebolted in 2012 by Larcher and Oviglia, respecting the strict ground-up ethics and consequently the original position of the bolts placed on lead during the first ascent.

Getting there

From Cala Gonone reach the Gole di Goroppu gorge.

Itinerary

P1: 7b+, 30m, 8 bolts
P2: 7c+, 25m, 6 bolts
P3: 8b, 45m, 11 bolts
P4: 8a+, 35m, 9 bolts
P5: 8a+/8b, 25m, 6 bolts
P6: 7c, 45m, 9 bolts
P7: 7a/b, 25m, 4 bolts
P8: 7b+, 25m, 5 bolts
P9: 7b 40m, 7 bolts
P10: 7b, 40m, 7 bolts
P11: 6b+, 60m, 2 bolts





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Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Roberto Vigiani 05/1988, after start 05/1988 by Larcher, Letizia Deavi, Maurizio Oviglia. Final 2 pitches Larcher & Vigiani 05/1999. 1st free ascent: Pietro Dal Prà 2000. 1st female ascent: Martina Cufar 2004. 1st onsight: Adam Ondra 2008
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Height
888m
Difficulty
8b
Obligatory difficulty
7c
Ascent exposition
North

Route



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