Infiniti Spazi, Aikido, Tai Chi Guglia di Sussiu

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Infiniti Spazi, Aikido, Tai Chi - Guglia di Sussiu

Italy>Sardinia>Sardinia>Supramonte>Guglia di Sussiu

Maurizio Oviglia

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Infiniti Spazi, Aikido, Tai Chi

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Maurizio Oviglia, Fabio Erriu (26/02/2015)

Maurizio Oviglia

Orientation

South

Length

80m

Difficulty

6a max (5c obl)

Period

The wall faces south and is located at 900m. While it is ideal in spring and autumn,climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. In summer the face receives the shade early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Route

Interesting climbing with a spectacular final pitch and abseil.

Access
From Ulassai to take the road towards Santa Barbara. Drive past a first lane, then a second lane with a gate. Park the car in the layby on the left, at a third lane. Follow this on foot and after 5 minutes discreetly walk through private property. At the end of the road climb over a fence and follow the path diagonally upwards towards the tower. Reach an old track. Follow this leftwards for 5 minutes to reach a giant cube of rock on the left. From here scramble upwards past cairn markers to the base of the cliff (25 minutes). Itinerary
P1: 5c
P2: 5b
P3: 6a

The other routes:

Aikido

20 m – 6c+ (5.11c)

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)

Overhanging crack climbing, continuous fist jamming. Only the belay is insitu.

Insitu abseil chain

Gear: Friends from 0,75 - 4. Triple sets of #3 and #4 BD

Thai Chi

25 m – 7a (5.11d)

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)

Overhanging crack climbing that increases in difficulty the higher you get. Fist jams lead to an offwidth finale. Only the belay and a sling are insitu.

Insitu abseil chain

Gear: Friends from 0,5 - 5. Triple sets of #3 and #4 BD

Descent
One 55m abseil into the void. Gear
12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet.