Via Marco Zambelli Franz - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
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Via Marco Zambelli Franz
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo & Giovanni Zanettin 10/10/2006
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
340m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Sport climb up the West Face of Cima Grande, to the left of Via Dülfer. Established from the ground-up in autumn 2006 with 10mm bolts and a handfull of pegs, it was freed on 10 October 2006.
Given the steep nature of the rock face, apart from the first pitches the climbing is always exposed and pumpy. In general the rock is good quality though it still needs some cleaning.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From the rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. From the top of the saddle climb up the pedestal at the base of the wall to the long chimney/corner. The route starts beneath a yellow crack. Descent
Walk right along the ledge to the normal route and then follow the instructions as for via Hasse.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From the rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. From the top of the saddle climb up the pedestal at the base of the wall to the long chimney/corner. The route starts beneath a yellow crack. Descent
Walk right along the ledge to the normal route and then follow the instructions as for via Hasse.
Comments
05/08/2010 depa
Mi piace l'idea di essere sicuro di tornare a casa. E piace ancora di più a chi mi vuole bene e resta a casa....
08/08/2009 giorgio travaglia
concordo decisamente con franz franz l alpinismo e un altra cosa
27/08/2008 Gino DE ZOLT
Gran bella via. Noi abbiamo evitati i primi 3 tiri più facili e bagnati. La roccia è quasi ovunque buona e la chiodatura giusta. Complimenti agli apritori
18/09/2007 Onesto
Cari professori criticoni, ognuno apre come gli pare, poi se non volete ripetere questa via meglio, guardate che di vie su cui rischiare il fondoschiena è pieno in 3 cime e guai a schiodare (vedi via dei francesi) è furto!!Bravo Ferruccio che ha aperto questa via in parte da solo e una miriade di vie in Dolomiti anche con 1 chiodo ogni chilometro
Beauty
First ascent
Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo & Giovanni Zanettin 10/10/2006
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
340m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
