Adieu Zidane - Gorges du Verdon
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Davide Crescenzio, Mountain Guide
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Adieu Zidane: The view onto Lac de Sainte-Croix
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Bruno Clement, 2002
By
Davide Crescenzio, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
100m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
6a+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Route
Pleasant 100m climb located in the Zidane sector on the final outcrop of the Verdon Gorge, with great view onto Lac de Sainte-Croix. The route weaves its way past a series of overhangs in search of the weakest line up the face. Equipped in 2002 by Bruno Clement, Adieu Zidane is highly recommended for anyone new to multi-pitches and the Verdon.
Getting there
From La Palud take the D952 north towards Moustiers. Before catching sight of Lake Sainte Croix drive past a roadman's house on the left (located opposite the waterfall) and after circa 1km park on the left at the viewpoint (Belvedere di Galetas) from where you can admire the lake and the bridge which crosses the Verdon river. Access
From the car park follow the track rightwards to the abseil station. Three abseils (30m, 50m, 30m) lead to the base of the route. The second 50m abseil is an exciting rap down into the void. Itinerary
From the end of the abseil follow the bolts up right, 5 pitches perfectly bolted, twin-bolt belays. Excellent quality rock. The route follows a logical line past the overhangs with a long traverse on the 4th pitch.
P1: 5c+
P2: 6a
P3: 5c+
P4: 6a+
P5: 6a Gear
12 quickdraws, slings for the belays, prussiks for the abseils, helmet. Notes
The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling. Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam
From La Palud take the D952 north towards Moustiers. Before catching sight of Lake Sainte Croix drive past a roadman's house on the left (located opposite the waterfall) and after circa 1km park on the left at the viewpoint (Belvedere di Galetas) from where you can admire the lake and the bridge which crosses the Verdon river. Access
From the car park follow the track rightwards to the abseil station. Three abseils (30m, 50m, 30m) lead to the base of the route. The second 50m abseil is an exciting rap down into the void. Itinerary
From the end of the abseil follow the bolts up right, 5 pitches perfectly bolted, twin-bolt belays. Excellent quality rock. The route follows a logical line past the overhangs with a long traverse on the 4th pitch.
P1: 5c+
P2: 6a
P3: 5c+
P4: 6a+
P5: 6a Gear
12 quickdraws, slings for the belays, prussiks for the abseils, helmet. Notes
The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling. Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam
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Beauty
First ascent
Bruno Clement, 2002
By
Davide Crescenzio, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
100m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
6a+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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