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Alta tensione

Switzerland>Vallese>Western Alps>Ossola-Gole di Gondo

Francesco Vaudo

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Alta tensione: On the second pitch of Alta tensione (ph Mauro Piccione)

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione, Massimo Coccalatto 25/01/2009

Francesco Vaudo

Orientation

Length

60m

Height

1260m

Difficulty

II/5+

Route

The route takes a line on the extreme righthand side of the drip. After a brief 7m vertical start follow a ramp right to the base of the vertical section. Climb another 5 or 6 meters and belay protected from the drips above. Now climb left to reach a second vertical section, from here continue for circa 30m to finish at the sling on the tree. A 60m abseil leads back to the base of the climb.

Getting there
Reach the Gondoschlucht by driving towards the Simplon Pass which separtes Switzerland from Italy. From the pass drive north into Switzerland towards the village Gabi. Access
Park the car at the first layby on the left immediately after the short tunnel before reaching Gabi. Return on foot through the tunnel and ascend the slopes above the road. Coast the rocky bastion and small stram to reach the base of the icefall. Descent
60m abseil, then continue down on foot along the line of ascent. Gear
Normal ice climbing gear. Notes
Watch out for the sun which reaches the icefall from circa 10-11 am then returns to the exiting snow fields.