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New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour...
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley...
UIAA addresses Electromagnetic Interference in Avalanche Transceivers
15/01/2024 - Gear
UIAA addresses Electromagnetic Interference in Avalanche Transceivers
The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has issued the following comprehensive position statement regarding the critical issue of electromagnetic interference (EMI) with avalanche transceivers.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the...
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Consequences: the Petzl RocTrip Creative Onsight film featuring Durif, Favresse, Lachat, Villanueva
31/05/2022 - Climbing
consequences: the Petzl RocTrip Creative Onsight film featuring Durif, Favresse, Lachat, Villanueva
The short film consequences by Jean Louis Wertz and Jan Novak, shot during the Petzl RocTrip 2022 at Manikia in Greece, featuring Sean Villanueva, Nico Favresse, Cedric Lachat and Charlotte Durif. Special guest: Petros Machete.
Filip Babicz repeats E9 Appointment with Death rope-solo at Wimberry
16/05/2022 - Climbing
Filip Babicz repeats E9 Appointment with Death rope-solo at Wimberry
Polish rock climber Filip Babicz has repeated Appointment with Death, the E9 6c gritstone climb at Wimberry Rocks in England. Babicz made the fifth ascent without crashpad and rope-solo.
Franco Cookson adds Immortal E11 7b to Maiden's Bluff, UK
23/12/2021 - Climbing
Franco Cookson adds Immortal E11 7b to Maiden's Bluff, UK
In April British rock climber Franco Cookson made the first ascent of Immortal at Maiden's Bluff, Yorkshire, UK. Graded E11 7b, it currently stands as one of the most difficult and dangerous in the country.
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
01/11/2021 - Alpinism
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
Austrian rock climber Nemuel Feurle has repeated Sangre de Toro 8b+ on Rote Wand in Austria.
Watch Jorge Díaz-Rullo free solo Darwin Dixit 8c at Margalef
25/04/2021 - Climbing
Watch Jorge Díaz-Rullo free solo Darwin Dixit 8c at Margalef
The video of Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo climbing Darwin Dixit 8c without a rope at Margalef.
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
15/04/2021 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
On Wednesday 3 March 2021 Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse soloed Via De Amicis on the Matterhorn. With this ascent the 43-year-old mountaineer from Valle d'Aosta closed the circle, becoming the first to solo all six ridges of the Matterhorn.