153 News found
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts...
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic alpine club, owner of...
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
15/04/2024 - Alpinism
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland On Sunday 14 April 2024, an estimated million cubic meters of debris collapsed on the north face of Piz Scerscen, the 3971m mountain located between the highly popular Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg on the Swiss-Italian border. No casualties occurred...
02/08/2023 - Climbing
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer have established a new route up the South Pillar of Baintha Kabata (6250m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war 35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had...
16/10/2022 - Climbing
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age American rock climber and photographer Glenn Denny (1939 - 2022) has passed away. Author of numerous classics such as West Face of Leaning Tower and Astroman, his images captured the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park.
28/08/2022 - Alpinism
Landslide destroys Alberico - Borgna Bivouac at Col de la Fourche, Mont Blanc massif On Friday 26 August the Alberico - Borgna bivouac, located close to Col de la Fourche on the SE Ridge of Mont Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif was completely destroyed due to a landslide.
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route...
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and...
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