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Mezzalama Trophy 2023, all is set for tomorrow's XXIII edition
21/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023, all is set for tomorrow's XXIII edition
On Saturday 22 April 2023 at 5:30 the XXIII Mezzalama Trophy will begin from from Breuil-Cervinia. The legendary ski mountaineering competition across the Monte Rosa massif will be streamed live as of 8:15.
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar. The spectacular 8b crux pitch had previously been freed by...
Crowdfunding campaign for solar powered water pump in Taghia, Morocco
13/04/2023 - Climbing
Crowdfunding campaign for solar powered water pump in Taghia, Morocco
A crowdfunding campaign to finance a solar powered pump to supply drinking water to the village of Taghia in Morocco has been launched. Called Eguzkiz Blai, the project is spearheaded by Iñaki Arakistain, Alex Honnold, Aitzol Ibarzabal, Arnaud Petit, Christian Ravier and Sean Villanueva O´Driscoll.
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
05/04/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, viewed through the eyes of the historic promoters Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 16th edition which will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy from 4 to...
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
31/03/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
On 6 March 2023 the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra and Giovanni Ravizza made the first ascent of 'Nati Liberi' on the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva, in the Mont Blanc massif. Bruni reports.
New couloir climbed on Torrione d'Entreves (Mont Blanc) by Niccolo Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza
10/03/2023 - Alpinism
New couloir climbed on Torrione d'Entreves (Mont Blanc) by Niccolo Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza
Niccolò Bruni and Giovanni Ravizza have made the first ascent of 'Goulotte Les Dégaines disparu', a new mixed climb on Torrione d'Entrèves above the Toula glacier in the Mont Blanc massif. Bruni reports
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Crack Baby at Kandersteg: Stephan Siegrist climbing in the footsteps of Xaver Bongard, Michael Gruber
07/03/2023 - Alpinism
Crack Baby at Kandersteg: Stephan Siegrist climbing in the footsteps of Xaver Bongard, Michael Gruber
The video of Stephan Siegrist and Michael Gruber on Crack Baby, the ice climb first ascended by Gruber and Xaver Bongard on the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland in 1993 and nowadays one of the most famous icefalls in all of Europe.
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
18/02/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first winter solo traverse of the Geislerspitzen - Odles (Villnöß - Funes) in the Dolomites.
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
15/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the Dauphiné Alps.
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
09/02/2023 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
On 30/02/2023 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Sognando l’inimmaginabile' on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Créton (3406m, Petites Murailles, Italy). 600 meters high, the new mixed climb is graded WI 4+ M7.
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...

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