Ego Land added to Marmolada (Dolomites) by Bernardo Rivadossi, Massimo Faletti, Luca Bana

On the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites Bernardo Rivadossi and Massimo Faletti have established 'Ego Land'. Freed by Rivadossi and Luca Bana, the 410-meter multi-pitch offers difficulties up to 8c/c+ max (7c+ obligatory) and is one of the most difficult in the Dolomites.
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The first ascent of 'Ego Land' on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites (Luca Bana, Massimo Faletti, Bernardo Rivadossi 08/2024)
Max Faletti

The legendary south face of the Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites continues to provide pearls of the utmost difficulty. The latest in chronological order is called Ego Land, is located on the enormous Dorso dell'elefante pillar, and was established ground-up earlier this summer by Bernardo Rivadossi and Massimo Faletti. The pair chose a line that starts to the left of Alì Babà (M. Giordani, F. Zenatti, P. Cipriani, 1983) then crosses it at the second pitch before continuing straight up for a total of 410 meters split into 10 pitches. At the top it crosses Grande Traverso, established by Igor Koller & co.

Last week Rivadossi returned to the Dolomites, this time with Luca Bana, and the two forged two other pitches to make the new route more independent from Ali Babà. After trying the moves and resting for a few days, on August 28 the pair freed the route in "team free" style (swinging leads, with the leader freeing each pitch).

Ego Land provides max difficulties up to 8c/+, boasts an important obligatory grade of 7c+, and is therefore one of the most difficult in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists, it is "a true masterpiece" that winds its way through the enormous overhang on the lower section of the Elephants back, before tackling the legendary limestone slabs and pockets of the Queen of the Dolomites.




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