172 News found

The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia

The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.

Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...

On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.

Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.

Neil Gresham has established Hydrotherapy 8a+ at Pembroke, one of the hardest Deep Water Solo outings in Great Britain.

After an aborted attempt on Mount Kyzyl Asker, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger established Quantum of Solace (ABO, WI 7+, M7, 600m) up the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan.

British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have carried out the first pinkpoint ascent of Century Crack in the Canyonlands, USA. An analysis including the first-hand account of Steve "Crusher" Bartlett.

The thoughts for Walter Bonatti which PlanetMountain received from the alpinists...

Maurizio Oviglia introduces a new seaside trad climbing paradise: 25 routes from 5a to 7a at Capo Pecora in Sardinia.

On 2 August 2011 Italian climber Mario Prinoth carried out a rare repeat of Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland, while on 25 May he had managed to on-sight the via Battisti - Weiss (400m, max 8a+) on Spiz delle Roe de Ciampiè (Larsec, Catinaccio, Dolomites).

Interview with Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou after La Classica Moderna' the new route the trio esablished up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on Mont Blanc.

On 1 August Hervè Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou established La Classica Moderna - The Modern Classic - up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

Swedish skier Andreas Fransson has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Denali (6197m), while British alpinists Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim have sped up the Cassin ridge in 14 hours 40 minutes.