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Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless,...
Two rock climbs in Val Mora
16/06/2014 - Alpinism
Two rock climbs in Val Mora
Beautiful Val Mora, on the border between Italys' Valtellina and Switzerland's Engadin and the story of the first ascent of two rock climbs, Gli svizzeri di qua and Mutandenbaum, by Martino Quintavalla
Zweite Geige, new ice climb in the Dolomites by Leichtfried and Purner
06/02/2014 - Alpinism
Zweite Geige, new ice climb in the Dolomites by Leichtfried and Purner
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7, 140m) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
The Piolets d’Or 2014 international Jury announced: George Lowe president
24/01/2014 - Alpinism
The Piolets d’Or 2014 international Jury announced: George Lowe president
George Lowe, Erri De Luca, Catherine Destivelle, Denis Urubko, Lin Sung Muk and Karin Steinbach are the members of the highly expertPiolets d'Or 2014 Jury, with complementary approaches, endowed with a mountain spirit transcending the framework and limits of the discipline
New winter climbs in Scotland
22/01/2014 - Alpinism
New winter climbs in Scotland
On 11 January four new routes were added to Creag an Dubh Loch in Scotland by Nick Bullock, Greg Boswell, Callum Johnson, Uisdean Hawthorn, Simon Richardson, Guy Robertson, Will Sim and Iain Small.
Montserrat, Eneko and Iker Pou climb Tarragó, the route that no longer exists
16/01/2014 - Climbing
Montserrat, Eneko and Iker Pou climb Tarragó, the route that no longer exists
At the end of November 2013 Iker Pou and his brother Eneko made the first free ascent of La Tarragó at Montserrat in Spain. The 240m line boasted difficulties up to 8b+ but subsequently the bolts were removed by unknown climbers and, as such, no longer exists.
Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
03/10/2013 - Events
Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
On Friday 15 November 15 Lugano (CH) will host Dreams and magic: breathtaking adventures from the Rätikon limestone to the glaciers of the Antarctic Peninsula with Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat, Romulus Nottaris and Simon Anthamatten. This year celebrates the 15th anniversary of the death of Delio Ossola and all proceeds...
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
03/10/2013 - Climbing
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
The report of the beautiful climbing trip up North, between the sea and the rock faces on the Lofoten island, Norway. By Giovanni Zaccaria and Alice Lazzaro.
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
20/09/2013 - Interviews
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who talks about the new big wall Bushido (VII– A4 VII+), established together with Marcin Tomaszewski up Great Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
26/07/2013 - Climbing
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
Last July Andrea Simonini, Giacomo Duzzi and Lorenzo Moretto made the ground-up first ascent of "Lisetta" (250m, IX-, 7b+) up Col dei Bos, Fanis, Dolomites.
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
22/07/2013 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach have safely reached Base Camp after having forged a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho (6109m), Trango, Pakistan.
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
20/05/2013 - Interviews
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
16/05/2013 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
On 4 May Pete Whittaker made the first ascent of Baron Greenback ta the gritstone outcrop Wimberry in England, while Tom Randall made the first repeat of Appointment with Death and Nathan Lee repeated Order of the Phoenix.
2nd International Master Course in Mountain Medicine
22/03/2013 - Alpinism
2nd International Master Course in Mountain Medicine
The second edition of the International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will start on May 2013 to end on June 2014 and will be held at the Italian Insubria University in collaboration with the University of Turin and the Bolzano EURAC. The introduction by Doctor Luigi Festi.

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