Adamello: new route Cuore di Zucca and first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile by Guerzoni and Sandrini

In early March the two alpinists Andrea Guerzoni and Dario Sandrini established "Cuore di Zucca", a new route up Corno Zuccone in the Adamello mountain range in the Italian Alps. The new line is relatively easy and Guerzoni describes it as "something more exploratory than technical... circa 700/750m in length, with ice grade 4 and rock 5+. We belayed on just one pitch. The ambient is fabulous, excellent training for the strong and a great outing for beginners."

Shortly after this ascent Guerzoni and Sandrini returned to do something which certainly isn't for beginners: the first winter ascent of the famous Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile on nearby Cornetto di Salarno. Long considered the hardest in the Adamello range due to its difficulty, poor protection and lenght, this route was established ground-up with some long run-outs by Matteo Rivadossi, Giuliano DeGiacomi and Alberto Damioli and offers difficulties up to VIII+ along its 750m meters.

In its 17 year history "Dr Gore" hasn't lost any of its charm and fascination, on the contrary. Guerzoni and Sandrini succeeded on 16 March after a couple of initial attempts were stopped short on pitch 3 due to ice-covered slabs. The repeat was carried out in a 9-hour stint after a bivy at Rifugio Prudenzini and Guerzoni commented: "Alpinism of a different era but with fututistic ethics!" before adding "For me this ascent marks an important turning point in my career as an alpinist... I've now understood how stubborn, determined and obstinate I can be to reach an objective."

For more information about the ascent and other photos check out Guerzoni's blog.