165 News found

Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

Egregious wilderness climbing violations found at Joshua Tree National Park, USA.

On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.

In May Hansjörg Auer from Austria on-sighted the famous route Strawberries first ascended by Ron Fawcett in 1980 at Tremadog in Wales. In more than 30 years this trad climb has only been on-sighted by Stefan Glowacz and Jorg Verhoeven.

The race towards the highest mountain on earth: a multitude of summits, long queues and, like every year, too many deaths. By Vinicio Stefanello.

In the Adamello mountain range in Italy, Andrea Andrea Guerzoni and Dario Sandrini have established Cuore di Zucca (5+, 700m) on Corno Zuccone. Furthermore, on 16 March the two made the first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile up Cornetto di Salarno.

Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson have repeated Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b, 270m) at Punta Giradili and Amico Fragile (8b, 230m) at Monte Donneittu in Sardinia.

Adam Ondra has freed the route To tu jeste nebyl 9a, bolted ground-up together with Ondra Benes at Labak in the Czech Republic. Adam Ondra reports.

The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia

The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.

Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...

On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.

Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.