1496 News found

Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.

On 26/12/2010 Pete Harrison made the first ascent of the hardest winter route in Wales, Are You Having it about the Woolly Mammoths XI 10 in the Llanberis Pass.

"La Cascata delle miniere" in Valle dell'Orco and "Ciao TFR" in Vallone di Piantonetto, two icefalls in Northern Italy climbed by Marco Appino, Umberto Bado, Mauro Appino and Renzo Vottero.

At the Shawagunks Brian Kim established the trad route Monumental 5.13d, while at the New River Gorge Brett Perkins climbed Proper Soul 5.14a R/X without bolts but with trad gear.

Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.

Paul Robinson stars in Carlo Traversi's bouldering film The Greatest Flasher.

In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).

Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.

South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl recounts his Dolomite summer which includes, amongst others, the first ascent of his new route, Fairplay 9+/10- on Piz Boè in the Dolomites.

British climbers Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker and Adam Bailes have established a series of new routes in one of Europe's premier granite rock climbing areas, the Valle dell'Orco in northern Italy.

Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.

The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.

On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).

Interview with British climber after the first ascent of The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, carried out in 6 days in October 2010 with Jason Pickles and graded E9 7a, 5.13d R, 8b, 510m.

From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.

From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.