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Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
01/08/2023 - Competitions
Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 begin in Bern today
The 2023 Sport Climbing World Championships begin today in Bern, Switzerland. The event will award world titles in Boulder, Lead, Speed and Paraclimbing, also distribute the first batch of 10 Olympic quota places for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
31/07/2023 - Alpinism
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
On the gendarme Roi du Siam (3632m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have established the multi-pitch climb 'Calcul du Roi'. Bruni reports.
Mathew Wright frees bold Magical Thinking E10 at Pavey Ark, UK
24/07/2023 - Climbing
Mathew Wright frees bold Magical Thinking E10 at Pavey Ark, UK
Mat Wright has made the first ascent of the bold trad climb 'Magical Thinking' E10 7a at Pavey Ark, England.
Cool new climb on Cima Cee in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher
21/07/2023 - Alpinism
Cool new climb on Cima Cee in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher
Luca Giupponi and Rolando Larcher have made the first ascent of Recessione Globale on the SW Face of Cima Cee in Val di Tovel (Brenta Dolomites). Larcher provides the details.
Video: Jakob Schubert DWS on Mallorca
20/07/2023 - Climbing
Video: Jakob Schubert DWS on Mallorca
Watch the first episode of Austrian climber Jakob Schubert deep water solo climbing on the island of Mallorca and making the first repeat of Chris Sharma's 'Alasha'. The crux consists of an 8A boulder problem 15 meters above the water.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
19/07/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret)...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in...
Jain Kim & Toby Roberts rule Chamonix
11/07/2023 - Competitions
Jain Kim & Toby Roberts rule Chamonix
Jain Kim from South Korea and Toby Roberts from Great Britain won the third stage of the Lead World Cup 2023 at Chamonix on Sunday 9 July. This is Kim's 30th Lead victory, Roberts' first.
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
10/07/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
IFSC approves 2024 process for reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes
13/06/2023 - Competitions
IFSC approves 2024 process for reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes
The Executive Board of the IFSC has approved to start a process for the reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes, starting from 2024. The suspension of the Climbing Federation of Russia and Belarus Alpine Federation remains in...
Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy
09/06/2023 - Climbing
Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy
The report by Florian Riegler from the South Tyrol, Italy, who at Nago close to Arco freed his multi-pitch sport climb Stile di vita (8c, 100m).
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.

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