Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia

Gonnesa is a small town just off the west coast of Sardinia, south of the famous cliffs of Masua which for decades have attracted climbers to the Mediterranean island. Gonnesa itself hosts many crags developed during the eighties on nearby Monte San Giovanni, unfortunately though most of these were abandoned in the nineties following a series of landslides.

A part of these outcrops are located in a geologically safe area and for the last decade a a small quartzite crag on the south-west side of the mountain had attracted my attention. It can be reached easily from the village by following a dirt road that passes right below its base. The extremely hard rock (quartz and silicon) made bolting the new routes particularly difficult. Despite the complications, and thanks in part to a crowdfunding campaign I launched last February, I managed to bolt the crag in 35 days of work. Often two or three days were needed for just one route! Superquartz as I've called it now sports 26 climbs from 4c to 7b.

Style: the very particular rock, weathered and with large holds, is the real peculiarity of this crag and what distinguishes it from all the nearby limestone crags. This is actually the real reason I decided to bolt it. The climbing is exceedingly pleasant and the adjective that is often heard by those climbing here is "fun". This is indeed the most fitting term to describe the climbing which is always athletic and easy to read, hence the crag is ideal for beginners. Given these characteristics, the bolting is obviously plaisir, but the bolts are not embarrassing close. The quality of the gear is excellent, with stainless steel certified belays.

Getting there: from Gonnesa reach Via Amendola and exit the town towards Monte San Giovanni. In front of some houses, turn left. Here the dirt road begins its ascent. At present those with a low car are forced to park here. Those who can continue (perhaps the road will be fixed in the future) can drive up to the antennas, even without a 4x4. From here, following the road, the crag can be reached in 5 minutes, otherwise reckon with 20/25 minutes on foot from the first parking lot.

Best time of year: mid-season, but you can climb all year round. The crag receives the sun around 11 in winter, around 13-14 in summer. The routes on the right remain wet until the sun arrives. With mistral wind or after dry spell the rock is generally dry everywhere. The base is wide and ideal for children, unless they are right below the climbers.

Accommodation: in the village the Locanda S'Anninnia is ideal for breakfasts, dinners and overnight stays. Numerous alternatives and for all pockets. The sea is located just a couple of kilometers away beautiful beaches. Relatively close Sant'Antioco and Carloforte.

Other crags in the vicinity: Masua, Buggerru, Domusnovas, Punta Pilocca

Thanks: Cecilia Marchi, Antonio Iaria and all those who helped me and contributed financially to the creation of this crag.

by Maurizio Oviglia

TOPO: the crag Superquartz at Gonnesa, Sardinia