Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy

Like many, my brother and I often observed the beautiful shady face directly opposite the crag Nago, but it was only in spring 2017 that we ventured below it for the first time. And we were thrilled.

"Such a brilliant, perfect sheet of rock, it's strange that there are almost no routes here. We absolutely have to establish a new climb here" we agreed and got to business! That same year we established a new multi-pitch sport climb, ground-up through the central section of the right side of the face. After 2 days we reached the top. The route is fantastic: first-class rock, really difficult, and hopefully it would go free! Yes, because the challenge of a first ascent isn't so much the actual first ascent, but the first free ascent! A few days later we tried it again and worked the harder sections. Unfortunately, however, it turned out to be too difficult for us, especially the 2nd pitch. And so we said to ourselves: "no worries, there are many better climbers than us who could redpoint it!"

5 years later. We still talkwd about our route, which in the meantime we called Stile di Vita, Lifestyle. But I needed to really get back in shape to try it properly. I called my friend Daniel (coach of the South Tyrolean team) and asked him to create a training program, tailored for a climber who does it for pleasure (I'm a farmer), who is 40 years old, a father of young family and who nevertheless wants to get stronger. Training for me is only possible in the evenings... In autumn (when conditions on the face are ideal) unfortunately I don't have time to try the line because at the Rieglerhof it's apple harvest time. Daniel, however, continued to train me and actually he often joined me on my training sessions! At the end of April 2022 I managed to climb the crux pitch a dozen times with a "rest", but unfortunately I was unable to make a clean ascent. A few days later I injured my ring finger while bouldering in the gym and had to take a break. Shi..!

April 2023. I'd trained for this route for two winters. Unfortunately I always failed on the last difficult moves below the second belay. But one "rest" is one "rest" too many! Conditions were perfect though! Cold, windy and dry! "Concentrate!" I told myself. I knew all the moves by heart and climbed faster and faster to the crux. My climbing partners encouraged me to keep going. It was Wednesday April 7, 2023, I was with Mich and Rosalie. They belayed me and then followed on jumar. On my second attempt I finally managed to send the 8c pitch. A loud cry of joy reverberated through the valley!

Now only the 3rd pitch was missing, the one I was still slighty worried about. 1st attempt: I fell! 2nd attempt: I fell! 3rd attempt: I fell! I couldn't get past the bouldery moves through the roof. Damn! I was tired, hungry and cold. Rosali rappelled to get food, drink and long trousers from the car. Mich and I remained at the second belay. We hauled up all the gear and I take a break for about an hour. It was 19.00! This would probably be my last attempt. I got back on, Mich belayed me and cheered me up every move.. Now I managed to stick the poor hold a lot better and finally sent! At the belay, I sung and screamed with joy. The last easy pitch was a mere formality and a few minutes later we happily reach the top. Seven years after the first ascent, I completed the ground-up free ascent!

Heartfelt thanks to Martin Riegler, Daniel Springet, Michele Caminati, Alex Holzmann, Mich Kemeter and Rosalie Klaus for having belayed and motivated me!

by Florian Riegler

Stile di vita
6c+, 8c, 8a+, 6a

Links: Instagram Florian Riegler, FB Riegler Brothers, www.florianriegler.com CAMP