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Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
30/10/2014 - Alpinism
Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
30/10/2014 - Climbing
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition
21/10/2014 - Alpinism
K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition
In spring 2014 the Italian K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition led by Alberto Peruffo explored the region to the south of Kanchenjunga.
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set...
Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins
15/10/2014 - Interviews
Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins
Interview with talented British climber and alpinist Tom Ballard.
Leonidio and the crag Hot Rock in Greece
03/10/2014 - Climbing
Leonidio and the crag Hot Rock in Greece
Located in the Peloponnese, just 3.5 hours south of Athens, Leonidio is Greece's newest trendy area, with more than 20 crags and 300 routes; single and multi-pitch climbing up to 250m high, from 5a to 9a. Aris Theodoropoulos introduces one of the best crags in Europe for winter climbing.
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
25/09/2014 - Alpinism
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
On 9/09/2014 Hansjörg Auer and Gerhard Fiegl made the first ascent of The Music of Hope (7a, A1, 500m), a new route up the Kristallwand, Kirchkogel, Ötztal Alps, Austria.
Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film
19/09/2014 - Climbing
Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film
The trailer of the film Magia di Calcare (Magic of Limestone) by Roberto Parisse that documents the history of bouldering at the Gran Sasso in central Italy and the making of the guidebook, due out in spring 2015.
Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
18/09/2014 - Events
Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
The short report of the first Orcoblocco, the bouldering meeting that took place at Ceresole Reale, in Valle dell' Orco (NE Italy) from 12 to 14 September 2014.
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
16/09/2014 - Alpinism
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.
Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
16/09/2014 - Climbing
Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè recount how Kalymnos appears towards the end of summer 2014. An island seemingly made for all the climbers in the world
GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone
12/09/2014 - Events
GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone
The 'GraMitico' bouldering meeting will take place in Valle di Daone (Italy) from 13 - 14 September 2014