1499 News found

British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in Val Masino (Italy).

During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.

From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...

Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...

Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...

Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.

The video of English crack climber Tom Randall making the first ascent of The Kraken V13 at Hartland Quay, England.

The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...

Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...

American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.

On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.

At The Temple in Canada Will Gadd has made the first ascent of Instagrade, a 60m mixed climb the Canadian alpinist has defined as "a lot harder than anything I've ever climbed."

In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches of Here today gone tomorrow (X-, 215m) on Scoglio delle Metamorfosi in Val di Mello, Italy. In November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed the climb in memory of their friend Pietro Biasini, who died in Norway...

Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.

On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë...

At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.