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Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
11/02/2010 - Alpinism
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who...
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
03/02/2010 - Climbing
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
28/01/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have recently returned from their trip to Patagonia where despite terrible weather conditions they managed to forge "Waiting for Godot" (750m, 7b) along the East Face of Central Tower to the Col which separates the...
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first...
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate...
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
04/12/2009 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
02/12/2009 - Alpinism
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the North Face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
25/11/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
In October Charlotte Durif from France carried out the first ascents of two 8c+, Pull Over at the Grotte de Galetas in Verdon and the wall at Combe La Vielle.
Bhagirathi new routes for Prezelj, Blagus and Lindic
26/10/2009 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi new routes for Prezelj, Blagus and Lindic
In September the Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj climbed three new routes in the Bhagirathi group located in the Gangotri region in the Indian Himalaya.
Cochamo Valley, Swiss team climbs Los Tigres del Norte on Cerro Capicua
20/10/2009 - Climbing
Cochamo Valley, Swiss team climbs Los Tigres del Norte on Cerro Capicua
A Swiss team comprised of Ivan Tresch, Michi Tresch, Tom Holzhauser and Dominik Angehrn has established Los Tigres del Norte (7c, 1200m) the first free route up Cerro Capicua in Cochamo Valley, Chile.
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
13/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
The history of Eternal Flame and an interview with Alexander Huber after the first free ascent of the route which climbs the Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum.

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