Bhagirathi new routes for Prezelj, Blagus and Lindic

Autumn has proven to be profitable for Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj: in September the three alpinists from Slovenia established a hat-trick of formidable new routes in the magnificent Bhagirathi region in the Indian Himalaya. In truth the climbers had set their sights elsewhere, but last-minute permit problems forced them to look elsewhere. The choice couldn't have been better as after a week of snowfall the trio then enjoyed a magnificent three-week window of exceptional weather. Marko Prezelj provides the information about the latest lightweight, alpine-style expedition.


Bhagirathi expedition 2009 by Marko Prezelj
"Our expedition to the Gangotri region was a substitute for a planned trip to Rimo, so went to India without tight plans and expectations. Basically we went climbing, and as a result of our approach all my impressions about the region and experiences are quite pure. I like the area and the climbing there as much as the fact that one has many choices of free climbs to harmonise them with conditions and personal preferences.

We first climbed Bhagirathi IV (6,193m) across a snow couloir and short steep mixed section before we traversed on the North ridge which leads us to the narrow summit. The 1,000m route was graded D+ and down-climbed (with four rappels).

A week later we climbed a 1,300m, mixed route onto the South West Face of Bhagirathi III (6,454m), between the 1982 Scottish Pillar and the 1993 Czech Route. We climbed our line with one bivouac, overcoming difficulties of 6b, M5 and WI 5 (two diagonal rappels were needed on route) - an overall grade of ED. Reaching the summit, we descended the original South/East side of the mountain.

After few day of rest, we climbed the 1,300m South South West Face of Bhagirathi II (6,512m). The climb took three days, finishing on the 1st October. The steep rock wall leading towards the upper South West Ridge was climbed as a mixed route, with pitches of 6b+, M8 and WI 6+ (and an overall grade of ED+/ABO-). After our second bivouac at the top of the wall, we followed mixed ground to reach the South West Ridge, and followed it to the summit. We traversed the mountain in alpine style - descended via the classic 1938 Austrian Route on the East Face."