Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the North Face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
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The North Face of Hama Yomjuma (5970m) and the line of ascent of Ramri Keti
arch. E. Bonino
The route, first ascended by Mountain Guides Enrico Bonino and Nicolas Meli together with Francesco Cantù is 1100m long and required two bivvies. Ramri Keti is probably the first climb up the face and ascends a series of nice colouirs via difficulties up to 5+ ice, M7 mixed and 5a on rock.
The route finishes beneath an overhanging band of rock 100m shy of the summit because, as Enrico Bonino states "after the second bivvy I climbed the last M7 colouir to where this is barred by an overhanging band of rock 100m beneath the summit. We could have exited via an easy scramble along terraces to the crest but a good-for nothing dropped my rucksack 1100m down the face. To not risk another bivvy without gear and a descent down the other face and risk losing everything, we decided to abseil down to the start of the gully.
Hama Jomjuma is one of the many peaks in the Khumbu valley (the one which leads to Everest and Ama Dablam) and is at the foot of the village Lungden which is reached in four days march from Lukla via the Renjo Pass.
ROUTE
Hama Yomjuma 5970m, Khumbu, Himalaya, Nepal
Orientation: North
First ascent: Enrico Bonino (Mountain Guide), Nicolas Meli: (Mountain Guide), Francesco Cantu (Doctor) 19-22/11/2009
Length: 1100m
Grade: WI5+/M7/5a
Approach: From Lukla airport go towards the Renjo Pass to the village of Lungden (4 days) 4200m. From the village is possible to see the upper part of the face. The base of the route is reached in 3 hours march directly above the lodges (3h).
Ascent: three gullies lead up from the base of the wall, take the central one.5 pitches, from 5a to M6, lead to a snow gully and then a snow field (good bivvy). Continue for 150m and a steep 80m mixed section which leads to another 100m snow field. The upper overhang is now obvious. Twelve pitches from 4/R to M7 lead to the enormous rock barrier where the route ends. From here it is possible to abseil down the route. The last abseil is to the side of the ascent line and protected from snow and rockfall.
The route finishes beneath an overhanging band of rock 100m shy of the summit because, as Enrico Bonino states "after the second bivvy I climbed the last M7 colouir to where this is barred by an overhanging band of rock 100m beneath the summit. We could have exited via an easy scramble along terraces to the crest but a good-for nothing dropped my rucksack 1100m down the face. To not risk another bivvy without gear and a descent down the other face and risk losing everything, we decided to abseil down to the start of the gully.
Hama Jomjuma is one of the many peaks in the Khumbu valley (the one which leads to Everest and Ama Dablam) and is at the foot of the village Lungden which is reached in four days march from Lukla via the Renjo Pass.
ROUTE
Hama Yomjuma 5970m, Khumbu, Himalaya, Nepal
Orientation: North
First ascent: Enrico Bonino (Mountain Guide), Nicolas Meli: (Mountain Guide), Francesco Cantu (Doctor) 19-22/11/2009
Length: 1100m
Grade: WI5+/M7/5a
Approach: From Lukla airport go towards the Renjo Pass to the village of Lungden (4 days) 4200m. From the village is possible to see the upper part of the face. The base of the route is reached in 3 hours march directly above the lodges (3h).
Ascent: three gullies lead up from the base of the wall, take the central one.5 pitches, from 5a to M6, lead to a snow gully and then a snow field (good bivvy). Continue for 150m and a steep 80m mixed section which leads to another 100m snow field. The upper overhang is now obvious. Twelve pitches from 4/R to M7 lead to the enormous rock barrier where the route ends. From here it is possible to abseil down the route. The last abseil is to the side of the ascent line and protected from snow and rockfall.
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