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Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
02/11/2021 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
On 31 October 2021 Scottish climber William Bosi made the long-awaited second ascent of Mutation at Raven Tor. First ascended by Steve McClure in 1998 and originally graded 9a, Bosi has now suggested an upgrade to 9a+.
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
01/11/2021 - Alpinism
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
Austrian rock climber Nemuel Feurle has repeated Sangre de Toro 8b+ on Rote Wand in Austria.
Katherine Choong climbs hard in Verdon and Engelberg
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Katherine Choong climbs hard in Verdon and Engelberg
Swiss rock climber Katherine Choong has repeated 'Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache' (300m, 8b) in the Verdon Gorge, France, and '6.4 Sekunden' (170m, 8b/+) at Engelberg in Switzerland.
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
New ice climbs in Lapland, Sweden
26/10/2021 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Lapland, Sweden
Rafa Vadillo from Catalonia, Spain, reports about new ice climbs established in Swedish Lapland, in particular in the Stora Sjöfallet National Park and the Sarek National Park.
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
21/10/2021 - Climbing
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
Scottish climber Will Bosi has made a short but successful climbing trip to Switzerland, during which he repeated a flurry of hard boulder problems including the 8C Foundation’s Edge.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
Vita Lukan climbs 8b+ onsight, Geminis at Rodellar in Spain
17/10/2021 - Climbing
Vita Lukan climbs 8b+ onsight, Geminis at Rodellar in Spain
Slovenian climber Vita Lukan has onsighted Geminis at Rodellar in Spain. Thanks to this ascent the 21-year-old has become one of the few women to onsight a route of these difficulties.
Lorenzo Bogliacino, Gabriele Moroni nail Naturalmente 9a+ at San Rocchino, Italy
14/10/2021 - Climbing
Lorenzo Bogliacino, Gabriele Moroni nail Naturalmente 9a+ at San Rocchino, Italy
At the crag San Rocchino close to Camaiore in Tuscany, Italy, Gabriele Moroni then Lorenzo Bogliacino have repeated Naturalmente. Graded 9a+, the route was freed by Adam Ondra in 2017 and unrepeated.
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
13/10/2021 - Alpinism
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
05/10/2021 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
Robbie Phillips has established 'What we do in the shadows’, a new E10 7a which adds a direct finish to Nosferatu at Duntelchaig in Scotland. Shortly after the first ascent Dave MacLeod completed the second ascent.
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
30/09/2021 - Alpinism
Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
As part of his 'From 0 to 0' project, Andrea Lanfri set off from Genoa by bike and climbed to the Capanna Margherita (4554m) on Monte Rosa, before returning to Genoa by bike. The Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca travelled over 470km by bike and needed just 18 hours...

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