Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson

Winter climbing in Scotland is full on and two who have been swinging their axes more than most are the usual suspects, Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson, who after their first ascent of Nihilist at Lochnagar have now established Vortex at Cul Mor in the northwest of the country.

The new mixed climb breaches the main roof system of this great cliff, cutting its way across the magnificent black wall. The route is graded X,10 and therefore considerably harder and more committing than Nihilist. It had been attempted in the past by other parties, who most probably bailed on pitch 2 while tackling technical terrain that leadso the obvious roof. Indeed, after an impressive battle Robertson fell here on lead, his sizeable fall held by mediocre protection.

Boswell recounted "Guy removed the now useless gear, so I could try and find a safer placement and we swapped ends. The butterflies in my stomach were making me feel sick! Not only that, but every time I looked up I got bombarded by a wave of icy spindrift. It was hard to get in the right headspace for the inevitable fight I knew I was about to engage in. After what seemed like an age of sketchy feet, horrifically bad pick placements and the overwhelming feeling that I could be ejected from the crag any second, I eventually found myself 10m above my last shitty runner and on terrain where I could once again relax. I let out a woop and continued to finish the pitch."

Another two "big and very involved pitches of hard climbing" led the pair into the night and finally onto easy ground and the end of the route. It's worth highlighting that apart from the technical difficulties, the climbers had to fight hard against strong winds and adverse winter conditions. Boswell concluded that their blustery day out in the Scottish mountains had been "a whirlwind of emotions, spindrift and impeccable climbing."

Greg thanks: SCARPA, Petzl, Sunto, RAB, Leki, Lowe Alpine

Links: FB Greg Boswell, IG Greg Boswell, gregboswell.co.uk