Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia

After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.
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Making the first ascent of Crysalis by Grenke' alla Punta Giradili, Sardinia (Alviero Garau, Davide Lagomarsino)
archivio Davide Lagomarsino

The climbers from Cagliari Davide Lagomarsino and Alviero Garau have established a new climb on the famous Punta Giradili on the east coast of Sardinia. The new route explores the totally virgin south-east face, marked by two huge ledges. This decidedly long climb looks out onto the sea and provides beautiful views onto the surrounding coast and Pedra Longa. Thanks to the numerous bolts and difficulties that are not extreme, the climb is likely to become a popular outing.

The route can be repeated both by those who want to climb all the way to the summit, and those who are pushed for time and wish to climb only the first section before abseiling off. In this case, on the penultimate rappel it is recommended to clip two bolts in order to easily reach the belay belay of the last spectacular abseil into the void.

If you only want to climb the first section, you will only have to climb the first seven pitches, while the entire route is 16 pitches long. The summit book is located in a metal box shortly below the summit. It is possible to climb the route in two days, splitting the ascent with a bivy in hammocks at the central ledge. The trees used for the hammock bivy are located on the first ledge on the right. This is a splendid solution for those wishing to spend two days out in the open, in a location of rare beauty.

The climb was sponsored by the Grenke Locazione, which paid for all the 316L stainless steel bolts and abseil chains, as well as E9 for the clothing and Festool, who's new ultra-light drill was successfully put to the test.

TOPO: Crysalis by Grenke, Punta Giradili, Sardinia




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