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Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu north face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the north face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Juan Señoret from Chile and Christophe 'Tof' Henry from France died on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile. Both were undisputed reference points for mountaineering and extreme skiing, and the loss of these two will be felt for years.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear...
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the...
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger north face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of...
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This...
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
The video of the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m), established on the north face of Grytetippen on Senja Island in Norway by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023.
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
23/06/2023 - Climbing
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
On Sunday 18 June Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has repeated Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) on Grand Pfad in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one...
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.

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