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Old Man of Hoy climb by eight-year-old raises 30,000 € for Climbers Against Cancer
01/07/2018 - Climbing
Old Man of Hoy climb by eight-year-old raises 30,000 € for Climbers Against Cancer
The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland was climbed recently by eight-year-old Edward Mills. In becoming the youngest person to climb the iconic sea stack he importantly raised nearly €30,000 for Climbers Against Cancer.
Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky
23/11/2017 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky
Yesterday at the drytooling crag Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites Angelika Rainer repeated A Line Above the Sky. With this ascent the climber from the South Tyrol has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in...
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route...
Melloblocco 2017: Individually, Together
15/05/2017 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2017: Individually, Together
Melloblocco 2017 seen through the eyes of Maurizio Panseri. After having climbed in Val Masino and Val di Mello for 30 years, the Italian alpinist now took part in this, his first-ever, grand bouldering meeting.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine...
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
26/12/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide...
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located...
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
15/12/2015 - Interviews
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
Interview with talented Italian climber Annalisa De Marco who, on only her third attempt, sent Disney Production, an 8A+ boulder problem at Brione, Canton Ticino, Switzerland.
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
28/10/2015 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
The report by Alessandro Zeni who on 26/10/2015 at Totoga in the Primiero Dolomites carried out the third ascent of Ultimo Movimento, freed by Maurizio Manolo Zanolla in 1986 and famous for being the first 8b sports climb in Italy.
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
28/09/2015 - Interviews
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
Interview with American rock climber Hans Florine who a fortnight ago made his 100th ascent of The Nose, the famous rock climb up El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.