Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga

Filtered by sweeter rays of light, in a moment of silence my spirit and body find their way and what was elusive and deceptive is resolved in a flash of clarity. My finger tips are sore, my breathing becomes heavier. Connecting heaven and earth, body and soul, a dance with equilibrium.

I gather the final petals of power locked in the last act of a story about to come to an end. I accept the distorted taste of a possible defeat, placing my body at instinct’s mercy... the gentle flow of seconds leaves just enough time for a last breath while everything is contained within, in that '"LAST MOVE” as history is written…

This is how a new page is added to the book of climbing difficulties, concerning a route that raised the bar for its utmost quality, style and difficulty. Because of this the route received the accolade of FIRST Italian 8b, established by Manolo in 1986.

A story that was forgotten about for 24 years when my friend Sky (Riccardo Scarian, Ed) in 1991 and Cocco (Alessandro Sorato, Ed) a few years later carried out the first and second repeat.

Hidden and preserved up there, this ancient parchment is now back in the limelight, remembering times passed, joys won in the silence of a last move allowed to flow through the footsteps of time… and this is how on 26 October 2015 I made the route’s 3rd repeat

Thanks to Riccardo Scarian for his support and advice and to my brother Gian Zeni who accompanied me up there, to those small holds and with whom I managed to savor this beautiful, exciting and happy momen. THANKS!

by Alessandro Zeni

Alessandro Zeni thanks his sponsors: Grivel, La Sportiva, Montura