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Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
03/10/2013 - Events
Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
On Friday 15 November 15 Lugano (CH) will host Dreams and magic: breathtaking adventures from the Rätikon limestone to the glaciers of the Antarctic Peninsula with Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat, Romulus Nottaris and Simon Anthamatten. This year celebrates the 15th...
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
03/10/2013 - Climbing
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
The report of the beautiful climbing trip up North, between the sea and the rock faces on the Lofoten island, Norway. By Giovanni Zaccaria and Alice Lazzaro.
Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado
01/10/2013 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado
The second news report from Italy's Orco Valley by Maurizio Oviglia: the crags Sitting Bull and Dado that offer a interesting mix of sport climbing, trad and aid.
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the...
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
05/09/2013 - Climbing
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of Presolana Centrale.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in...
Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
06/08/2013 - Events
Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
The nominations for the VIII edition of Arco Rock Legends that will take place on Friday 6 September 2013 during the Rock Master Festival to assign both the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. In the running...
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
24/07/2013 - Alpinism
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by...
The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
23/07/2013 - Climbing
The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
A new guidebook by Manolo to the Primiero Dolomites has just been published. A preview to the book and the wizard's latest climb: the first free ascent of Pappagorgia at the crag Bilico in Val Canali, Italy.
Kunyang Chhish East, Karakoram: first ascent by Simon Anthamatten, Hansjörg Auer and Matthias Auer
23/07/2013 - Alpinism
Kunyang Chhish East, Karakoram: first ascent by Simon Anthamatten, Hansjörg Auer and Matthias Auer
On 18 July 2013 Simon Anthamatten from Switzerland and the Austrian brothers Hansjörg Auer and Matthias Auer successfully climbed the hitherto virgin peak Kunyang Chhish East in Pakistan's Karakorum.
Alpine Marathon at Svetogorsk in Russia
08/07/2013 - Competitions
Alpine Marathon at Svetogorsk in Russia
Diego Pezzoli talks about the Alpine Marathon, the particular aid climbing competition which took place from 14-16 June at Svetogorsk in Russia.
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
25/06/2013 - Alpinism
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.
A granite map of El Capitan
21/06/2013 - Climbing
A granite map of El Capitan
For the first time the geology of the SE face of El Capitan in Yosemite, USA has been analysed. The new map could become instrumental in avoiding accidents and rock fall victims.
Stefano Ghisolfi sends 9a at Tetto di Sarre, Italy
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi sends 9a at Tetto di Sarre, Italy
Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated the climb Ground Zero at Tetto di Sarre, Aosta. This is the first 9a for the strong climber from Turin.
Los Compadres, new rock climb by Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu at Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia
06/06/2013 - Climbing
Los Compadres, new rock climb by Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu at Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia
Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu have made the first ascent of Los Compadres (5c+, 335m) at the Gole di Gorroppu in Sardinia.
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established...

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