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Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Pete Whittaker / Climbing interview after all-free rope-solo up El Capitan in a day
08/12/2016 - Interviews
Pete Whittaker / Climbing interview after all-free rope-solo up El Capitan in a day
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker who at the start of November 2016 made a rope solo and all free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, in just over 20 hours. In doing so he has become...
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
06/12/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and...
The routes climbing photographers dream of
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was...
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in...
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+...
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
21/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
17/10/2016 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val...
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route...
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
PukaNaka, new rock climb up Sas Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
01/10/2016 - Alpinism
PukaNaka, new rock climb up Sas Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
Manuel Baumgartner reports about PukaNaka (7b+, 325m) a new route he climbed with Martin Baumgartner and Toni Oboles up the SW Face of Sas Tamersc (Fanes, Dolomites).