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Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes,...
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
17/03/2009 - Alpinism
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
16/03/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
On Sunday 15/03 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet departed from Italy to attempt Kangchenjunga, their 12th 8000m peak. Located on the border between Nepal and India, this 8586m mountain is the third highest in the world.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on...
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and...
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and...
Nalle Hukkataival boulders Hueco Tanks
06/03/2009 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival boulders Hueco Tanks
On a quick visit to Hueco Tanks, Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent of The Machinist V13 and Tequila Sunrise V13.
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
04/03/2009 - Climbing
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
Lukasz Dudek has repeated Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec close to the village Osp in Slovenia.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the...
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
26/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Enrico Bonino introduces 4 icefalls which rarely come into condition and which have reformed during this exceptional winter in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. Located between Valsavarenche and Valtournenche, they are off the beaten track from the more famous areas around Cogne.