Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum

In late July the Australians Adrian Laing and Scott Standen and New Zealanders Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon travelled to the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum with the idea of establishing a new route on the Nafees Cap, the impressive spire which had been summited by Nicolas Favresse, his brother Olivier, Sean Villanueva and Adam Pustelnik in 2007 via their all free Ledgeway to Heaven 1300m 7c.

Twenty year high record snowfalls saw many of the proudest lines become waterfalls in the afternoon snow melt, so a drier line not fed by the summit snow was chosen. Difficult access to gain the wall saw the team climb two ice and one rock pitch to get to the desired crack system. Ten pitches were then free climbed with difficulties up to 7b in the first six days, living in the portaledges. 

After a quick trip to base camp for more supplies, Laing and Sedon returned to the wall without Dowrick and Standen who were both feeling the effects of altitude. They spent another 4 nights in the portaledge and climbed eight further pitches. The crack they had followed for twelve pitches deposited them on the right shoulder of the pillar where they joined Ledgeway to Heaven.

After a night bivvying out they attempted to climb the remaining pitches of Ledgeway to Heaven and summit but were thwarted by ice walls on ledges and cracks choked up with ice. After two pitches they bailed and rapped off to the portaledge.

The four climbers called their route Naughty Daddies 630m 7b. Sixteen of the nineteen pitches were free climbed ground up, on-sight and using only traditional protection. On two pitches a bolt was placed for leader protection. These bolts were placed on abseil after aiding an alternate pitch. The granite was of excellent quality and there is potential for many other hard, free routes up the numerous crack systems.