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First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
15/04/2024 - Alpinism
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
On Sunday 14 April 2024, an estimated million cubic meters of debris collapsed on the north face of Piz Scerscen, the 3971m mountain located between the highly popular Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg on the Swiss-Italian border. No casualties occurred as a result of this rock avalanche.
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the unclimbed SE Ridge; a search and rescue mission is currently...
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

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