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Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the unclimbed SE Ridge; a search and rescue mission is currently...
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
18/10/2022 - Alpinism
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
A joint Pakistani - French team comprised of Hassan Aljabbal, Adnan Khan, Sebastién Carniato and James Price has made the first traverse of Mirshikar Peak (5464m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. A day earlier, on 02/09/2022, Price opened a new route on nearby Pheker Peak (5465m), completing what is likely to be...
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
Marmolada glacier collapse: all 11 victims identified, Phase Two now begins
11/07/2022 - Alpinism
Marmolada glacier collapse: all 11 victims identified, Phase Two now begins
All 11 victims involved in the glacier collapse on Sunday 3 July 2022 on Marmolada, Dolomites, have been identified. The Mountain Rescue service has announced that Phase Two will now begin.
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
03/07/2022 - Alpinism
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
A huge portion of the Marmolada glacier in the Italian Dolomites collapsed below Punta Rocca early on Sunday afternoon, killing 11 mountaineers.
- All 11 victims have been identified
- Phase Two now begins, marked by drone searches for the next 10 days and the collection of findings every 3...
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
On 4 May 2022 Brette Harrington and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of Polar Moon (1200m, 45°) on Walker Arm, Baffin Island
Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari complete Everest acclimatisation
02/05/2022 - Alpinism
Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari complete Everest acclimatisation
Italian mountaineers Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari have completed their acclimatisation process on Everest. After spending a night at Camp 3 at 7200m, they are currently resting in base camp. Lanfri, a paralympic athlete, is hoping to summit after 7 May.
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
24/11/2021 - Alpinism
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
On the east face of Mont Blanc Giuseppe Vidoni and Francesco Civra Dano have climbed an icefall that had never been ascended before. Described as 'a real icefall at 4000m, about 200 meters high in the middle of the Brenva face’, the line then took them to the summit of...
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
10/11/2021 - Alpinism
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
Ace Russian mountaineers Alexander Gukov and Victor Koval have completed an impressive first ascent in the Kokshaal-Too Ridge mountain range, climbing a direct line up the center of the north face of Peak Kosmos in pure alpine style over a period of 7 days.