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You searched for: mixed climbing
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this...
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it...
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route...
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz...
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort'...
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
15/04/2022 - Alpinism
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.
Pizzo Badile British route climbed in winter by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
01/04/2022 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile British route climbed in winter by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
On Pizzo Badile in Italy Swiss alpinists Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach have made a winter ascent of the British route, first ascended in 1968 by Mike Kosterlitz and Dick Isherwood.
Mad Vlad climbed on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey by Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker
11/03/2022 - Alpinism
Mad Vlad climbed on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey by Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker
British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker have climbed Mad Vlad (350m M7 R, IX/8). This is likely to be a new route on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.
New routes on Becca Salé (Valtournenche) and Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc) by Cazzanelli, Perruquet, Ratti
22/02/2022 - Alpinism
New routes on Becca Salé (Valtournenche) and Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc) by Cazzanelli, Perruquet, Ratti
On 09/02/2022 François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of Su Per Cignana on Becca Salé in Valtournenche, Italy, while on 10/02/2022 Cazzanelli and Perruquet made the first ascent of Impulso Geniale on Pointe Adolphe Rey...
Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf add mixed climb to Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland
19/02/2022 - Alpinism
Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf add mixed climb to Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Silverbacks on Ice (M8 WI5 160m)at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland.
Cold Heart added to Val Lasties, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Thomas Mair
16/02/2022 - Alpinism
Cold Heart added to Val Lasties, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Thomas Mair
Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent of Cold Heart in Val Lasties, Sella Group, Dolomites, first ascended on 13 February 2022 with mountain guide Thomas Mair.
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one...
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge...
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
11/05/2021 - Alpinism
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.