New routes on Becca Salé (Valtournenche) and Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc) by Cazzanelli, Perruquet, Ratti

François Cazzanelli and Jerome Perruquet recently spent two interesting days in the mountains establishing two new routes in Valtournenche and in the Mont Blanc massif.

The two started on Wednesday 9 February with Francesco Ratti by adding the mixed climb Su Per Cignana (M6 75°, 600m) on the north face of Becca di Salé. "Everyone in Valtournenche knows this peak that overlooks the Cignana dam, and I've always wanted to go there" the mountain guide told planetmountain.com, adding "we took advantage of the lack of snow approach a line between the routes Gaspard and Manera, with which it shares the obvious gully. There are two pitches of M6 and, even if it's not particularly difficult technically speaking, finding good pro wasn't easy. It's a modest route but for us it was good training, with its 1200m approach and then the 600m ascent. Above all though, it was a great day out day in the mountains with friends."

The next morning Cazzanelli and Perruquet were already in the Mont Blanc massif, below the north face of Pointe Adolphe Rey where they planned on repeating Changing Corners, the climb recently first ascended by Christophe Dumarest and Tom Livingstone. However, a Swiss team was already on the line and "we didn't want to queue up because with you're never fast when mixed climbing these difficulties, and we'd already thought of a plan B"

The pair climbed a line further to the right, initially past relatively easy pitches, then one pitch of M6 and one of M8, before finishing up three easier pitches. Here they came across two old pegs, probably belonging to the exit of the Gex - Saluard route. The Italians descended down the opposite side of the mountain and skied back down to Courmayeur that same day.

"Before stating that I've added a new route to Pointe Adolphe Rey I've got to be extra careful, but it certainly looks that way at the moment! It's not a huge route, of course, it was a great little adventure with Jerome who's confirmed his class once again. We climbed the route in a clean style, leaving just one peg at a belay. Our line is certainly the most discontinuous compared to others on the face, but the M8 pitch was really satisfying. I'd dare say it's the best mixed pitch I've ever established!"

Cazzanelli thanks: La Sportiva, Julbo, Garmin, Grivel, Ski Trab and Cervinia Valtournenche Ski Paradise