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Repentance Super, the most coveted ice climb in Cogne
28/02/2023 - Alpinism
Repentance Super, the most coveted ice climb in Cogne
The story of the first ascent of Repentance Super, established in Cogne in Italy’s Aosta Valley in 1989 by Fulvio Conta, François Damilano and Giancarlo Grassi. One of the most famous icefalls in Europe.
Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
26/02/2023 - Interviews
Solenne Piret, impossible dreams do come true
Solenne Piret, born without her right forearm, is one of the strongest paraclimbers. With two world championship titles and boulder problems up to 7B to her name, she lives her life chasing dreams that she now knows she can...
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
15/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le Guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.
Paraclimber Solenne Piret leads ice climb at Ceillac, France
07/02/2023 - Alpinism
Paraclimber Solenne Piret leads ice climb at Ceillac, France
French paraclimber Solenne Piret has led her first icefall at Ceillac in France. Despite being born without her right forearm, the 30-year-old continues to push her boundaries in all forms of climbing.
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
Brit Rock Film Tour 2022 streaming from 3 - 6 November
03/11/2022 - Events
Brit Rock Film Tour 2022 streaming from 3 - 6 November
The 2022 Brit Rock Film Tour is available to stream from 3 to 6 November only, on the platform Film Festival Flix. The program contains three films, Queen Lines featuring Anna Hazelnutt, Ephemeral featuring Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell, and...
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
25/07/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles...
Nepal considering Everest Base Camp move due to global warming
18/06/2022 - Environment
Nepal considering Everest Base Camp move due to global warming
The BBC reports that the government of Nepal is considering plans to move Everest Base Camp off the retreating Khumbu glacier due to global warming
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
26/05/2022 - Interviews
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari complete Everest acclimatisation
02/05/2022 - Alpinism
Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari complete Everest acclimatisation
Italian mountaineers Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari have completed their acclimatisation process on Everest. After spending a night at Camp 3 at 7200m, they are currently resting in base camp. Lanfri, a paralympic athlete, is hoping to summit after 7...
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
25/03/2022 - Alpinism
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
Daniel Ladurner introduces 'The Bird', a rarely repeated mixed climb in Langental / Vallunga, first ascended by Massimo Faletti and Giovanni Groaz in 2003. Initially called Gola del Pettirosso, this 'pearl of the Dolomites' was renamed by the first ascensionists...
Last great icefall climbed on Ben Nevis by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Guy Robertson
10/03/2022 - Alpinism
Last great icefall climbed on Ben Nevis by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Guy Robertson
On 6 March 2022 Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of The Fear Factory (350m, WI6R), described as 'the last great unclimbed icefall on Ben Nevis.'