Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)

During a cloudy November day, while I training on the classic ski mountaineering route that leads up to Punta Rocca on Marmolada, I noticed this drip out of the corner of my eye from the summit. The break in the clouds lasted only a few seconds, but it was long enough for me to realise that there was probably something very interesting over there.

On Sunday 17 December Vaida Vaivadaite and I took a closer look. We parked the car at Malga Ciapela early in the morning and put on our skis. Once we reached the base of the icefall we immediately realised that the long approach had been worth it: above us had formed plenty of vertical ice and, by the looks of things, it was in great condition.

I strapped my crampons directly onto my ski mountaineering boots, then set off on the first pitch, which was vertical right from the start. We were immersed in a dreamlike setting, climbing a beautiful drip, with a stunning view onto the entire South Face of the Marmolada which literally basked in the sun opposite us. Two steep pitches led to the end of the ice, inside a cave formed by a huge wedged boulder. Two abseils off Abalakov quickly deposited us at the base of the climb and after putting our skis back on, we enjoyed the ski back down to the car. When we found out that ours was probably the first ascent, we decided to call it First Time.

I have to say that the icefall is not particularly long, but its two pitches are on excellent quality ice, set in a truly unique ambient. Given its altitude and the fact that it faces north, it promises to remain in condition for quite a while, possibly throughout all of winter. All those wishing to repeat it are kindly asked to respect the environment, and to leave everything as clean as possible. This includes establishing Abalakovs by threading your own ropes and not abandoning tat since this, when the ice melts in spring, transforms into rubbish which takes several decades to decompose..

by Emanuele Andreozzi

Andreozzi thanks Elbec and GrandeGrimpe for the support