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James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
09/02/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
British rock climber James Pearson has climbed his long-standing trad project in Annot, France. 'Bon Voyage' shares the same start as Pearson's 2017 'Le Voyage' (E10), and although no grade has been put forward yet, it promises to be up there among some of the hardest trad climbs in the...
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini,  Francesco Ratti
06/02/2023 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Francesco Ratti
On 31/01/2023 the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of 'Wake Up' (425m, 7a/A2).
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
31/01/2023 - Climbing
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
On 27/01/2023 Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain
Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
29/01/2023 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
American climber Michaela Kiersch has climbed her first 9a+, La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain. The 28-year-old is only the third woman to repeat this classic test after Margo Hayes in 2017 and Chaehyun Seo in 2022.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
10/01/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
09/01/2023 - Alpinism
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
The deadline for the 2023 First Ascent Expedition Award is 28 February 2023. Promoted by the UK-based charity GRIT&ROCK, the annual expedition grant pool of USD10,000 is aimed at supporting female advancement in mountaineering
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.
Protect Chile's Cochamó Valley petition reaches 99,000 signatures
02/01/2023 - Environment
Protect Chile's Cochamó Valley petition reaches 99,000 signatures
The petition to protect Cochamó Valley in Patagonian Chile has reached over 99000 signatures, while the Chilean government is considering applying Santuarios de la Naturaleza, or Nature Sanctuary status, to a small part of the valley.

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