New Brenta Dolomites mixed climb on Cima delle Fontane Fredde

The Fontane Fredde walls tower right above my house in Molveno, and during one of my daily workouts I noticed this magnificent line of rock and ice. I caught my attention immediately, because this imposing line had never formed before.

When I got home I got in touch with Franco Nicolini, my father-in-law and super expert of the Brenta Dolomites. We had to seize the opportunity immediately, also because I knew that a warm spell was forecast for the following days. Unfortunately Franco couldn't come the next day, so I rang Daniele Leonardelli and he accepted immediately. So on the morning of the 22nd of December we set off early and headed out to the base of the climb. This is located on the Fontane Fredde walls, a majestic face about 30 minutes above the path that leads from Rifugio Selvata to Rifugio Pedrotti.

We had no idea how difficult and long the climb would be, and how long it would take us. We climbed the first pitch pretty quickly; although not particularly easy it was all on ice. The second pitch alternated between rock and ice past difficult overlaps. The third pitch started with a technical slab on rock and led to an ice flow. Starting up the fourth pitch, the crux, we realised that we might be able to finish the route that day. From the belay there was a delicate roof that led us to the final meters and the belay. The fifth and final pitch was all on thin ice, and could be protected with cams all the way to the top. At sunset we sank happily and satisfied knee-deep in the fresh snow to reach Massodi, and from there we headed back down into the valley.

We decided to dedicate this aesthetically ambitious project to our dog Trilly, who passed away a few days later. We could only call the ice climb Trilly occhi di ghiacci, Eyes of Ice, as our big dog had glacial white eyes and a black and white coat like the alternating pitches of rock and ice. She had stolen our hearts, just like this line.

by Davide Galizzi