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Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is...
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad...
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29/01/2016 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
X Dream, new total dry tooling sector at Ceresole Reale
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
X Dream, new total dry tooling sector at Ceresole Reale
Eight total dry tooling routes in the new sector X Dream at the X-Ice Park, the ice climbing crag at Ceresole Reale (TO).
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
19/12/2015 - Climbing
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
In August 2015 on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria Alexander Luger made the first ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m).
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch...
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
09/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites,...
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
03/12/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus have made the first repeat of The Secret Passage, the 5.13c (8a+) climb on El Capitan established ground-up in 2008 by Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
02/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
Italy’s Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c sports climb located at beautiful Osso, freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012 and repeated only by Gabriele Moroni. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his...