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Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first free ascent of Voodoo-Zauber (IX-, 180m) on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc (2718m) in the Dolomites.
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was...
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
12/10/2015 - Climbing
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
On 27/08/2015 Much Mayr, climbing with Guido Unterwurzacher, made the first free ascent of the Spanish Route on the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult...
Maja Vidmar and her first multi-pitch climb in the Dolomites
01/10/2015 - Alpinism
Maja Vidmar and her first multi-pitch climb in the Dolomites
The report by Slovenian sports climbing champion Maja Vidmar who this summer climbed her first multi-pitch route in the Dolomites, the famous Comici - Dimai on Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve...
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a...
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
13/09/2015 - Climbing
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
One of the most famous moderate routes in Yosemite, Snake Dike on Half Dome, was lit up on 29 August 2015 to raise awareness for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and highlight safety issues concerning rebolting and regularly maintaining...

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