Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi

That tower immediately got me curious: perhaps because I was amazed I’d come across a completely virgin face, perhaps I was excited to know I could experience a true adventure at my doorstep, or simply because I allowed by dreams to take flight. My eyes gazed vaguely upwards for circa 400m, and together with my habitual climbing parter Gian (Gianluca Bellamoli), we looked for “the route”, for the most logical line of weakness.

There were no other routes on this spectacular limestone tower and being the first to choose where to go was exciting but also nerve-wracking as we wanted to make a good job of it. We scrutinized the face, searching for cracks, slabs and small corners. We knew one thing only: bolts at the belays and no where else!

The result is a route which is demanding from a physiological point of view, you need to be good at placing trad gear, and the difficulties up to 7a (VIII/VIII+) lead satisfyingly to the summit. In short, 11 spectacular pitches, each different, will guarantee a great day out. For me it was a really fulfilling adventure, an opportunity for personal and emotional growth,during which I entered a parallel dimension, in complete symbiosis with what the mountains can offer.

The route is called, very simply, Simonini-Bellamoli…somewhat retro perhaps, while the newly climbed pillar has been called "Pilastro Andrea Zambaldi”, in memory of our dear friend who perished in Tibet in September 2014.

A heartfelt thanks to Gian who, once again, proved to be a great climbing partner and with whom reaching this untouched summit was a truly unique moment. Thanks also to Duzz (Giacomo Duzzi) and Tommy (Tommaso Maechesini) for the logistical support, for Ulrich who teamed up with me during the redpoint, to Giorgio for the jeep (tel. 333.3198204) service and to Anna and Matteo, the hut wardens at Rifugio Cacciatore.

Thanks to: Wild Climb, Patagonia, ProAction and CAI "Cesare Battisti Verona.

by Andrea Simonini

ZAMBA notes from the film director Pietro Bagnara.

I was contacted by Andrein (Andrea Simonini) in spring 2015. We'd met the previous autumn climbing at Falconi above Verona, one of the many crags he and his friends had developed. Andrein asked me whether I might be interested in making a film about Val d'Ambiez. There were few ingredients, but they were genuine: a new rock climb up a virgin pillar they wanted to climb in memory of their friend who'd died the previous year on Shisha Pangma. The friend was called Andrea Zambaldi. I didnt know him. And yet, while making the film, I believe I got close to him spiritually, and to those emotions that had inspired his friends, with whom I worked to make this short film of six and a half minutes.onto di sei minuti e mezzo.

The video was made thanks to Wild Climb and CAI "Cesare Battisti Verona".